A new turf lawn looks good the day it goes down. Whether it looks good in six months depends almost entirely on what happened before the turf arrived. We have laid a lot of lawns since 2014 and the ones that have failed, or needed remedial work, have almost always failed because of what was under the turf rather than the turf itself.

Soil preparation: the step that matters most

The soil under a new lawn needs to be loose to a depth of at least 150mm, free of large stones and debris, and at a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. If you are working on a site that has had building work, the top layer is often compacted subsoil or builder's rubble with a thin skin of topsoil on top. This will not support a lawn. The right fix is to remove the poor material and bring in screened topsoil. It adds cost but it is the only way to get a lawn that establishes properly.

Grading and fall

A lawn should have a gentle fall away from the house and away from any boundaries. Even a slight hollow will collect water and stay wet, which leads to moss and poor grass growth. We use a long straight-edge and a spirit level to check the grade before the turf goes down. It takes an extra hour but it saves a lot of problems later. The target is a fall of about 1-in-100, which is barely visible to the eye but enough to move water.

Choosing the right turf

We source turf from a grower in Lincolnshire who cuts to order. This means the turf arrives within 24 hours of cutting, which makes a significant difference to how quickly it roots. Turf that has been sitting on a pallet for three days in summer is already stressed before it goes in the ground. Ask your supplier when the turf was cut. If they cannot tell you, it was probably not cut recently. For shaded areas, we use a shade-tolerant mix with a higher proportion of fescue.

Laying and the first two weeks

Turf should be laid in a brick-bond pattern with staggered joints and butted tightly together. Do not stretch it. Roll it lightly after laying to ensure good contact with the soil. Water it the same day it goes down and every day for the first two weeks, more in hot weather. The turf is rooted when you can no longer lift a corner without resistance. Until that point, keep foot traffic off it.

First cut and aftercare

The first cut should take off no more than a third of the grass height. Set the mower high, around 40mm, and make sure the blades are sharp. A blunt mower tears the grass rather than cutting it, which stresses the new roots. After the first cut, a light application of a balanced lawn fertiliser will help the grass thicken up. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds in the first season as they push leaf growth at the expense of root development.

If you are planning a new lawn and want to get the preparation right, we are happy to advise on soil testing and grading before you start. A site visit costs nothing and can save a lot of remedial work later.